Whirlpool Washer Error Codes: Complete 2026 Troubleshooting Guide
Whirlpool washer error codes tell you which part of the cycle your machine is struggling with, such as filling, draining, locking the door, or spinning. Many of them can be cleared at home in a few minutes by checking a faucet, a hose, or how much detergent you used. This guide explains what each common code means, what to check first, and when it’s time to call a technician.
Quick Answer: What to Do When Your Washer Shows a Code
Most Whirlpool washer error codes can be narrowed down with the same short routine:
- Note the exact code on the display.
- Look it up in the table below to see which system it points to.
- Do the simple check listed for that code.
- Reset the washer once (unplug it for 5 minutes, then reconnect).
- If the same code returns, stop resetting and call a technician.
Can’t find your code in this guide? Our washing machine error code finder is a handy diagnostic tool that gives you a quick starting point when the message on your display isn’t covered below.
Table of Contents
How to Read Whirlpool Washer Error Codes
Your washer shows codes on its display, or through flashing lights on some models. You’ll run into three styles:
- F and E codes, such as F8 E1 or F9 E1. The “F” number points to the system involved, and the “E” number narrows down the specific fault.
- Short letter codes, such as Sud, LOC, drn, HC or PF.
- Plain messages, such as Int, dET or rL.
If you’d like a broader look at how washing machine codes are organized across brands, see our guide to washing machine error codes explained.
Front-load and top-load washers don’t share exactly the same list. F5 E2 and F7 E1 appear on front-loaders, for example, while LdL, LdU, Ofb and OL are top-load codes. Meanings can also shift between model generations, and Whirlpool says its published lists may not cover every code for your model. Your owner’s manual always has the final word.
Not sure which manual you need? Look for the model number on a label around the door opening of a front-loader, or under the lid of a top-loader.
Before You Start: Identify Your Whirlpool Washer
Before you try any fix, it helps to know exactly which washer you own. Whirlpool makes front-load washers, top-load HE washers and older Cabrio-style top-loaders, and the same message can mean something different from one model to the next. Guessing from a generic list is how people end up chasing a problem their machine doesn’t have.
The model number is printed on the washer’s rating label, usually right next to the serial number. On some models that label is on the rear or side of the cabinet instead, so look around if you don’t spot it right away. Take a quick photo of the label with your phone so you have the number handy while you search for a manual.
Once you have it, look up your owner’s manual. Whirlpool’s support site has a Manuals and Literature page for exactly this. With the model number confirmed, Whirlpool washer error codes are much easier to match to the right meaning, and you’re less likely to replace a part for a fault that isn’t there.
Whirlpool Washer Error Codes at a Glance
This table covers the codes Whirlpool lists on its official support pages. Details for each one follow below.
| Code | Washer type | What it means | Check this first |
|---|---|---|---|
| F8 E1, LF, Lo FL | Front-load and top-load | Low water flow or slow fill | Hot and cold faucets fully open |
| F9 E1, drn | Front-load (F9 E1), top-load (drn) | Washer is not draining properly | Drain hose for kinks or clogs |
| Sud, Sd | Front-load and top-load | Too many suds | Detergent type and amount |
| F5 E2 | Front-load | Door not locking | Anything blocking the door |
| LdL | Top-load | Lid not locking | Items under the lid, residue on the lock |
| LdU | Top-load | Lid can’t unlock | Objects sitting on the lid |
| F7 E1 | Front-load | Motor speed sensing error | Shipping bolts and load size |
| F8 E2 | Front-load (select models) | Dispenser system problem | Clogged detergent drawer or cartridge |
| OL | Top-load | Load too large | Remove several items |
| Ofb | Top-load | Load out of balance | Redistribute the load |
| HC | Top-load | Hot and cold hoses reversed | Swap the inlet hoses |
| LOC, LC | Front-load | Control lock is on | Control Lock button |
| PF | Top-load | Power failure interrupted the cycle | Hold Start or press Power |
How to Find the Correct Whirlpool Washer Error Code
Start by reading the code exactly as it appears, and write it down. Pay attention to letters as well as numbers, because F8 E1 and F8 E2 point to different problems, and LdL and LdU differ by a single character.
Next, notice when the message shows up. Some appear only at certain moments: HC appears at the end of a cycle, lid appears when the lid has been left open, and Int shows while the washer winds down and drains after a pause or cancel.
If your washer has a digital display, the code appears as text. Some models rely on flashing lights instead. Whirlpool notes, for example, that the dial may flash, or all the dial lights may flash, when a top-load washer stops on an out-of-balance load. Flash patterns vary by model, so compare what you see with the chart in your Use and Care manual rather than guessing.
Finally, confirm the meaning in your model’s manual and on Whirlpool’s official front-load or top-load error code pages. If the code isn’t listed in either, don’t assume it matches a similar-looking code from another washer. The section on other F and E codes below explains what to do.
Safety Precautions Before Troubleshooting
A washer combines water, electricity and a heavy spinning drum, so a few precautions are worth taking before you touch anything.
- Unplug the washer, or switch off its breaker, before you reach behind it, inspect hoses or look inside the cabinet.
- Turn off both water faucets before you disconnect a hose or check the inlet screens, and keep towels and a shallow pan nearby for any water that escapes.
- Leave electrical parts alone. Don’t remove panels or touch wiring, the control board or the motor while the washer is connected to power.
- Make sure the drum has stopped before you open the door or lid, and never force a locked door open or bypass a lock.
Simple checks like opening a faucet, straightening a hose or redistributing a load are safe for most homeowners. Anything that means opening the cabinet or testing electrical parts is better left to a qualified technician. The “When to Call a Technician” section below lists the warning signs.
Water Fill Problems: F8 E1, LF and Lo FL
These Whirlpool washer error codes mean the machine senses low water flow, or the fill is taking too long. The cause is usually outside the washer.
Walk through these checks in order:
- Open both the hot and cold faucets all the way. The washer needs both supplied.
- Look behind the machine for kinked inlet hoses.
- Remove any anti-flood hoses or devices from the water line, since they can restrict flow.
- If the code keeps coming back, turn off the water and check the small screens where the hoses connect to the washer for debris.
Once the cause is fixed, front-load owners can press Pause or Cancel twice and Power once to clear the code.
If the faucets, hoses and screens all check out and the washer still fills slowly, the inlet valve may be worth testing. Our guide on how to test a washer water inlet valve walks through it.
Drain Problems: F9 E1 and drn
F9 E1 appears when draining takes longer than expected, typically more than eight minutes. Top-load washers use drn for a similar problem, and on some models you may see Ld or F21 for a long drain.
Start with the drain hose. It shouldn’t be kinked or clogged, and it should use the U-shaped hose form. Whirlpool’s standpipe (drainpipe) height range is 39 inches (99 cm) minimum to 96 inches (244 cm) maximum.
Next, think about detergent. Too many suds can slow draining, so make sure you’re using HE detergent. And if your front-load model has an accessible drain pump filter, check it for lint, coins and small items. Put towels down first, because water will come out, and follow your owner’s manual for the exact steps.
For a closer walkthrough, see our washer drain filter blockage fix guide.
Too Many Suds: Sud or Sd
This is one of the few Whirlpool washer error codes that isn’t a broken part. The washer has detected so many suds that it can’t spin the water out. It responds by pausing the tumbling, adding water, and extending the rinse so the bubbles break down. That can repeat several times, so give it time before assuming something is wrong.
To keep it from coming back:
- Use HE (High Efficiency) detergent, and measure it instead of pouring by eye.
- Skip “no splash” or “easy pour” liquid chlorine bleach. Whirlpool notes that the thickener in it can create extra suds, and regular liquid bleach is the better choice.
- Check that the drain hose or standpipe isn’t restricted, since that can also trigger Sud or Sd.
Door and Lid Lock Problems: F5 E2, LdL and LdU
Lock codes are among the most common Whirlpool washer error codes, and they’re often fixed by clearing something out of the way.
F5 E2 (front-load) means the door isn’t locking properly. Make sure nothing is blocking it, such as clothing caught in the seal, and that it closes completely. Then press Pause or Cancel twice and Power once to clear the code.
LdL (top-load) means the lid isn’t locking. Check for items directly under the lid, and look for detergent build-up around the lid lock.
LdU (top-load) means the lid can’t unlock because the washer senses something on top of it. Take off objects like a laundry basket.
Safety note: Never force a locked door or lid open. If the code returns when nothing is in the way, the lock assembly may need to be tested.
To see how that testing works, read our washing machine door lock switch test guide.
Motor Speed Error: F7 E1
F7 E1 means the motor can’t reach the speed the cycle calls for. On a front-load washer, there are two things to rule out first:
- All shipping bolts have been removed. This matters most on a newly installed machine.
- The washer isn’t overloaded.
Clear the code with Pause or Cancel twice and Power once. If it comes back with a normal load and no shipping bolts, the motor or drive system may be at fault, and that’s a job for a technician.
For more on what can go wrong in that area, see our article on the Whirlpool washer drive motor error.
Dispenser Problem: F8 E2
On select front-load models, F8 E2 points to a problem with the dispenser system. Whirlpool’s advice is to make sure the detergent drawer or cartridge isn’t clogged with detergent, then clean it. In many cases, removing and rinsing the drawer is enough.
Load Problems: OL and Ofb
OL means the load is too large. The washer drains the water and detergent, so take out several items, add HE detergent, close the lid and press Start/Pause.
Ofb means the load is out of balance. The washer first runs a correction routine, so give it a moment. If it stops with the dial flashing, redistribute the load, close the lid and press Start/Pause. A single heavy item, like a rug or a jacket, is a classic cause. Wash it with a few towels to even things out.
Hot and Cold Hoses Reversed: HC
On top-load models, HC shows up at the end of a cycle when the hot and cold inlet hoses have been swapped. Turn off the water, reverse the hoses, and run another cycle to confirm the fix.
Control Lock: LOC or LC
This one is a feature, not a fault. Touch the Control Lock button, or press and hold it on models that require it. Older machines may use a different button, so check the manual.
Other Messages You Might See
Some Whirlpool washer error codes are really status messages:
- PF (top-load): a power failure interrupted the cycle. Touch and hold Start to restart, or press Power to clear the display.
- lid (top-load): the lid was left open. Close it to clear the message. After 10 minutes open, the cycle resets and the water drains. Restart without adding more detergent.
- Int (front-load): the cycle was paused or canceled. The washer can take 20 to 30 minutes to stop spinning and drain while this shows. Press Pause or Cancel twice and Power once to clear it.
- dET (front-load): the detergent cartridge isn’t detected. Reseat the cartridge and close the drawer fully, or ignore the message if you use single-load detergent doses.
- rL or F34 (front-load): items were detected during the Clean Washer cycle. Empty the drum and restart the cycle.
What About Other F and E Codes?
You may also run into Whirlpool washer error codes such as F1 E1, F2 E1, F3 E1, F5 E1, F5 E3, F6 E1 or F8 E3 that aren’t listed in Whirlpool’s main troubleshooting pages. Repair sites often describe these as control board, stuck button, water level sensor, lid switch, door unlock, communication, or overflow faults. Treat those descriptions as general guidance only, because the same code can mean something different on another model.
If your display shows F01, our guide to the Whirlpool washing machine F01 error covers it in more detail. And if you’re dealing with an F6-type message such as F06 E01, see how to fix Whirlpool washer F06 E01 error code for specific troubleshooting steps.
For any other F# E# code, Whirlpool’s official advice is to unplug the washer for 5 minutes, reconnect it, choose the cycle again and press Start. If the code persists, a technician needs to diagnose it.
Be extra careful with any code that suggests overflow. If water keeps entering the washer when it shouldn’t, shut off the water faucets and disconnect power instead of running another cycle.
Older Cabrio-style top-loaders also use their own list. It includes LF for long fill, Ld for long drain, uL for unbalanced load, oL for overload, Sd for suds, Po when the pump runs because the lid stayed open over 10 minutes, dL and dU for lock problems, plus F-number faults for motor and control issues. Your manual will show the exact set for your model.
How to Reset a Whirlpool Washer After an Error Code
A reset clears temporary glitches. It won’t repair a blocked hose or a failed part, which is why some Whirlpool washer error codes come right back.
- Turn off the washer.
- Disconnect the power by unplugging it or switching off the breaker.
- Wait 5 minutes.
- Reconnect the power.
- Select a cycle and press Start.
- See whether the code returns.
If it does, fix the cause rather than resetting again and again.
Common Mistakes That Make Error Codes Worse
A few habits turn a simple problem into a repeat one:
- Resetting over and over. If a reset doesn’t hold, the cause is still there.
- Using regular detergent in an HE washer, or adding extra detergent mid-cycle.
- Forcing the door or lid open while it’s locked.
- Ignoring the model-specific manual and assuming a code means the same thing on every Whirlpool.
- Replacing parts based on the code alone. A code points to a system, not necessarily the failed part.
Why Whirlpool Washers Display Error Codes
When you look across Whirlpool washer error codes, most trace back to a handful of causes:
- Water supply issues, such as closed faucets, kinked hoses or low pressure.
- Drain restrictions in the hose, standpipe or pump filter.
- Door or lid lock obstructions, or lock failures.
- Overloaded or unbalanced loads that strain the motor.
- Too much detergent, or non-HE detergent.
- Electronic control or motor faults, which are less common and need proper testing.
When to Call a Technician
Basic checks are worth doing first, but some Whirlpool washer error codes and symptoms call for a professional. Get help if:
- The same code returns after you’ve fixed the obvious cause and reset the washer.
- The washer won’t start, lock, or spin.
- Water keeps filling unexpectedly.
- You notice a burning smell or unusual electrical noises, or the breaker trips.
- The code points to the motor or control board.
Safety warning: Don’t open the cabinet or bypass a door or lid lock while the washer is connected to power.
How to Prevent Whirlpool Washer Error Codes
A little routine care keeps many Whirlpool washer error codes from showing up in the first place:
- Use HE detergent and measure it.
- Don’t overload the drum, and spread laundry evenly.
- Inspect inlet hoses from time to time for kinks, cracks or leaks.
- Clean the drain pump filter if your model has one, following the manual.
- Clean the detergent dispenser regularly.
- Keep the door seal and lid lock area free of lint and residue.
- Make sure the washer is level.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the most common Whirlpool washer error code?
On Whirlpool’s official pages, the codes for slow fill (F8 E1, LF, Lo FL), poor draining (F9 E1, drn) and too many suds (Sud, Sd) show up most often. All three usually come down to water supply, drain hose, or detergent.
How do I clear Whirlpool washer error codes?
After fixing the cause, front-load washers can usually clear a code by pressing Pause or Cancel twice and Power once. If the code stays on screen, unplug the washer or disconnect power for 5 minutes, then reconnect it.
Can I keep using my washer when it shows a code?
It depends on the code. Status messages like LOC, Int or lid can simply be cleared. For a code that keeps returning, or any sign of unexpected water filling, stop using the washer until the cause is found.
Do all Whirlpool washers use the same codes?
No. Front-load and top-load models differ, and older models differ again. Always confirm the code in your owner’s manual.
Final Thoughts on Whirlpool Washer Error Codes
An error code tells you where to look, not which part to replace. Most Whirlpool washer error codes point to something simple, like a closed faucet, a kinked hose, too much soap, or an overloaded drum. Work through the quick checks, reset once, and compare the code with your model’s manual.
If the code keeps coming back, don’t keep guessing. A technician can test the pump, lock, valve, motor or control board properly. And if you want to bookmark one page for next time, keep this guide on Whirlpool washer error codes handy, along with Whirlpool’s official support pages.
Official resources:
Comments